Time Out
Wednesday August 3 - 10, 2005
Green
& Blue, which opened its doors in East Dulwich in June, is a wine
shop and wine bar combined. You can buy wine to take away or, if you
prefer, you can drink your purchase, for a modest mark-up, in the room
at the back with some simple but good quality nibbles, such as
dolmades, a plate of Neal's Yard Cheeses, some Spanish cured meats,
etc. If you don't want to buy a whole bottle, there's an inspired
selection of wines sold by the glass.
Helpful, informed, enthusiastic staff (try finding that at a
supermarket!) will happily make recommendations and let you taste
before you buy. Among the offerings on our visit were a savour Chilean
Carmenere, a raspberry-scented chilled Pinot Noir from Luxembourg and a
crisp Tocai from Friuli in Northern Italy. And, joy of joys, not a
Blossom Hill in sight.
Green and Blue is the brainchild of South African-born Kate Thal. Thal
has long been known in the wide trade as an outspoken critic of branded
wines. Not it seems she's putting her money where her mouth is. The
wine selection is sizeable and the selection superb. The wines are
generally sourced from smaller producers, many are grown organically or
biodynamically. Prices are not off-putting either, there are some good
finds below £6 - although you can spend a fair bit more than that if
you want.
The (largely local, we suspect) clientele seem to be very happy with
the new addition to the neighbourhood. People pop in for a quick
'glass of something interesting' after dinner or on the way home. Every
Monday evening, the wine bar at the back is the venue for casual wine
tastings (about £12 per person), tutored by Thal. We went along to a
tasting of organic and biodynamic wines. The approach is casual, not
too didactic, yet informative, and the selection of wines broad
ranging. People are encouraged to contribute their opinions of the
wines and to ask as many questions as they like.