It is easy in the restaurant business to get
things wrong. So when a venue gets everything right, from food to wine
to ambience to staff, the relaxation caused by being perfectly served
is imbued by actual joy.
And what is this heady place? Tis Green & Blue, a deli, wine shop
(that does deliveries) and restaurant found in East Dulwich, south
London.
The atmosphere I was hoping for was romantic and by Jove, romance is
what I got. The small, circular tables were remotely spaced enough for
the laughter of merry ladies to feel distant and for extra amour, there
was candlelight. Our waitress was thoroughly charming and recommended
wines without flinching when I mentioned that uncouth term: ‘budget’.
G & B’s menu is dominated by The Nibbles, an exhaustive selection
of meat and vegetarian titbits from the deli next door. To nibble, we
ordered balsamic onions (£2), grilled courgettes (£4.50), falafel with
humus (£6) and roasted artichokes (£5). All were delicious but the true
revelation came in sweet and refreshing balsamic onion form. These tiny
balls retained the succulence and crunch of their eye-watering friend,
the pickled onion, but with a treacly balsamic glaze in place of
acidity.
My choice of wine normally involves evaluating how cheap I can go
without every sip invoking a grimace but this time I went for a 2007
Pinot Gris (normally priced at £23.75) whose exoticism stayed on the
palette for what felt like days. The subtle, smooth, light flavour has
caused me to appraise my policy on wine, as when a drink is that tasty
you don’t bolt it. A single bottle lasted my date and I for over three
hours.
If The Nibbles are the Steve Buscemi of G&B’s menu (prolific and
varied) then The Mains are the Daniel Day Lewis (limited output but
packed with quality). I chose the pie and salad (£8.75) which on the
day contained roasted vegetable and feta cheese. The flavours just kept
on coming and involved a heady mix of flaky, sweet, tender, rich,
salty and warming sensations. My date chose the savoury tart and salad
(£5.75): a parsnip and carrot creation that was crisp, had a hint of
spice and was cooked to perfection.
Even the accompanying salads sung with flavour, the lettuce was fresh
and crunchy and the sprinklings of dill and chives gave it a bit of a
kick. Every mouthful was satisfying.
A final nod must go to the novel concept of ‘Chippage’ which I
discovered whilst perusing the menu. For the price of £3 per head you
can bring your own food to G & B and be provided with plates and
cutlery. Perfect if you fancy a change of dining scenery but your bank
balance says ‘no’…