Margaret River - Cullen Wines
True love blossoms at Cullen in Margaret Rive
True love blossoms at Cullen in Margaret River I very much fear that we may have peaked too soon. Although I have no doubt that I will taste wines which I like very much on the rest of this non-stop trip, I am probably not going to feel quite the same passion again. I have known for a long time that Cullen are my favourite Australian producer but actually visiting has added an extra dimension to the love affair and the morning after last night, I am completely smitten. And ever so slightly hungover.
We left Albany in the morning and made what felt like an interminable journey (almost 6 hours in a bus) to Margaret River, through absolutely magnificent forests of Blue Gum, Karri, Marri and Jarrah and other eucalypts. Many of these trees shoot straight up, their strong, slender trunks exquisitely pale and smooth, instead of gently spreading branches to the left and right. I have to come back and take time to walk through these instead of just looking at them through the windows of a moving vehicle some time.
Margaret River, when we finally arrived, was nothing like what I imagined. For a start, it is much bigger than I had thought. I have always pictured it as the Australian version of Napa Valley and while I still think that is true in some ways, physically they are completely different. Napa is manicured, slick and almost overly styled at times while Margaret River – although the actual town of that name has elements of all of that – in the main retains a rustic feel. It very much still feels like a farming community and there are great swathes of land in between vineyards so it is not as obviously a wine region.
Margaret River is surrounded by the sea on 3 sides, moderating temperatures (although it certainly did not feel that way yesterday which was oven hot again – 38 degrees celcius and when you are standing in that, it is almost impossible to imagine that fruit can survive with acidity intact) and meaning that the extremes seen further south are not a feature here. The small creeks and valleys and natural vegetation found in the valley create a host of microclimates with supposedly the best reds being produced in Wilyabrup – in the middle – where Cullen are based.
Even if Vanya Cullen made wine which tasted like kangaroo pee, I would probably still want to visit and keep an eye on what they were doing. From the very start of their history in 1966 (Cullen were the founder family of the Margaret River region in this year, planting the first commercial vineyard then), they were completely dedicated to responsible farming, keeping chemical intervention to an absolute minimum and doing everything with maximum respect for the environment.
The first time I met Vanya at a small tasting at The Square in London in about 1999, she spoke with great conviction about organic viticulture. This is not that long ago in some ways but all the way back in the final days of the last century, organic was not that much spoken about – it was bubbling under but whole sections of the trade in all sectors dismissed it out of hand. I remember telling the very eminent Sales Director of a highly respected London Wine Merchants in ’99 that I wanted to do a list with as many organic wines as possible and he looked at me with complete bafflement. I honestly don’t think he knew what on earth I was talking about.
8 years on, the situation, happily, has changed completely and Cullen has moved on even further and is now completely biodynamic, using the various preparations and the water flow contraption (this is not the technical term but I am referring to the serious of different containers in which water is stirred in a specific direction to create a vortex. It then flows down from one container to the next and when the process is finished, the mixture of water and preparation is ‘charged’, so to speak, and ready for spraying), as well as working according to phases of the moon.
We were treated – and that really is the right word, despite what I am about to tell you – to an in-depth explanation of the 500 preparation after dinner. That, for the uninitiated, is the cow manure which is buried in a cow horn for about 6 months and then dug up, diluted (35g to 40 litres of water which is enough for a hectare) and sprayed. Some of the manure post burial was produced and unsavoury as it may sound to pass poo around with the cheese (a novel departure from Port), the hard, brown pellets had a rich, earthy smell which was clean and by no means too farm-yardy. A sprinkling of ground up quartz and silica follows and within a relatively short space of time, rich, varied and vital life returns to vineyards and soils. Earthworms, butterflies and all manner of bugs which feed on each other – which means there is no need for sprays to get rid of anything – flourish, as do the vines.
These vineyards bristle with health – the soil looks moist, brown and alive and this in a region experiencing its worst drought in 130 years this vintage. Apparently biodynamically farmed soils hold 20% moisture than those farmed by other methods (which is why it is particularly appropriate for drought prone regions) and it certainly looks that way. The vines are green and exuberant and the fruit tastes sweet, intense and perfectly balanced. Neighbouring vineyards just across the fence did not have the same energy about them – the soils were greyer and there was a slightly weary air to the hot vines. Vanya spoke about this natural balance which is a feature of biodynamically grown fruit – there is no need to adjust in the winery at all because acids, sugars and tannins are all perfectly pitched at the initial production stage – on the vine.
She always was and remains a very inspiring lady with a complete commitment to helping to sort out the mess we have created on this planet, not just in and through wine making but in all sorts of areas. The winery is now completely carbon neutral through various tree planting programs which they are involved with. She believes – rightly - that we need to all stop thinking only about what we get out of life and start to think about what it is that we can give back. So for all these reasons, I would be in love with Cullen, no matter what the wines tasted like but happily for this particular affair, they are completely spectacular and we were treated to some real gems.
Hot, dusty and profoundly sick of travelling, we were welcomed off the bus with an initial tasting of the current and just released vintages . First though, we visited the winery to have a look at few of the infants. The 07 Chardonnay in barrel – pre malolactic fermentation (where the very sharp malic acid is converted into much softer lactic acid) – was already surprisingly well integrated with the oak and full of vibrant fruit and good texture. This had slightly floral aromas which are apparently a bit of a feature with biodynamically grown fruit.
The 06 Chardonnay from tank was actually slightly more all over the place in a way, still needing time to settle but it showed the same seamless oak integration and great length and texture.
Fresh Semillon juice from grapes harvested that morning was a revelation – the flavours were in vivid technicolour – sugar snap peas and freshly mown grass in the juice from the Cullen vineyard and more melon and lemon with broader exture in that from the Mangan. The 07 Sauvignon on the nose was exactly like very freshly squeezed lemon juice – almost literally bristling with verve.
Then back to the tasting room for the finished wines :-
2006 Mangan Sauvignon/Semillon
60% Sauvignon Blanc – 2.3 tons/acre yield
40% Semillon – 2.7 tons/acre yield
12.7% abv
15% of the Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in French oak
This wine is a new version from the Mangan vineyard (farmed by Vanya’s brother and his wife and in the process of conversion to biodynamics) and the original (from the Cullen vineyard is still made as well). Like all Cullen vines, these are dry-farmed and are in the process of conversion to biodynamic viticulture.
Fresh, grassy nose with underlying single cream. Good, balanced acidity and medium body with cream, lemon and grapefruit and a touch of honeyed spice. Still tasting very young but all the components are in place and the length is delicious and persistent and very fresh, with a slightly spice finish.
Highly recommended
£16.50
2006 Cullen Sauvignon/Semillon
80% Sauvignon Blanc – 2.1 tons/acre yield
20% Semillon – 2.1 tons/acre yield
12% abv
45% matured in new French oak
Rounder, richer nose than the Mangan which follows through on the palate where there is slightly more intense spice towards the back. Also still just a touch too young but very lovely. On balance, I think I prefer the Mangan which is tighter with, at this stage, more minerality. The Cullen is lovely though with great melon ripeness and even hints of smoke.
Highly recommended.
£16.50
2005 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon
80% Sauvignon Blanc – 2.1 tons/acre yield
20% Semillon – 2.1 tons/acre yield
13% abv
27% barrel fermented and then aged in French oak
Grassy, melon nose. Balanced acidity and medium body with tight, crunchy green fruit, underpinned by cream, toast and spice. Great length and mid-palate weight with good butter/spice development. This is considerably more fleshed out that the 2006. Sauvignon was so outstanding this vintage that more than usual was used.
Highly recommended.
£16.00
2004 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon
77% Sauvignon Blanc
23% Semillon
18% barrel fermented in French oak
Richer and much more honeyed on the nose than previous vintages – obvious development. Rich honey and cream on the palate with an appealing grassy edge and fantastically well balanced acidity. Good length and development with rich spice towards the back. Ever so slightly too hot on the finish.
Highly recommended.
2003 Cullen Sauvignon/Semillon
54% Semillon
46% Sauvignon Blanc
75% of the Sauvignon fermented in new French oak
Tropical nose with smoky hints – appealing but a whole other level of richness compared to previous vintages. Richness even more apparent on the palate, enlivened by a fresh, grassy edge – the oak becoming much more of a secondary ingredient and not at all overwhelming. Excellent development with more freshness coming out further back. Great length and finish.
Highly recommended.
2002 Cullen Sauvignon/Semillon
2002 is regarded as one of the best ever vintages for whites at Cullen, particularly for the Sauvignon and Semillon. The yields were even lower than usual that year and the growing season was long and cool.
More Sauvignon character than any of the others on the nose – nettle and asparagus. Beautifully balanced on palate, the oak has melted completely into the fruit with hints of asparagus and flint. Excellent buttered honey development with acidity still fresh as a daisy. This wine is still very much alive and kicking and while showing development seems to have years yet to go. Very, very beautiful wine.
Highly recommended.
The tasting does get slightly hazy at this point, so I apologise for the notes that follow. It was an amazingly hot day. I had not slept for more than 4 hours a night since arriving and I was reaching what my grandmother used to call my overwrought stage. This is not particularly alarming, it just means I fall about laughing helpless when I really should be serious. To compound this, I had fallen in with a bad crowd in the group – Francois and Jon – who are dangerous to be around in this state. The table with Vanya Cullen on it were engaged in an earnest discussion about wine. We were all involved in an overwrought discussion about Viagra.
2005 Cullen Margaret River Chardonnay
As with all the wines, this has naturally lower alcohols and higher acidity (so they no longer have to add any) since converting to Biodynamics. Incredibly low yields in 2005 and the wine was 100% barrel fermented in new French oak.
Slightly closed on nose but hints of lemon peel and ripe peach. Excellent balancing acidity, medium to full body with lemon cream and leesy undertones. Richer butterscotch towards the back and the finish is clean and lemon fresh. Truly wonderful wine and an example to all new world Chardonnay producers of what this variety can do, oaked, in a hot climate.
This was absolutely fabulous later at dinner, served with scallops with sesame and soy and prawns with coriander and paw-paw.
Highly recommended.
2004 Cullen Margaret River Chardonnay
30% of this wine was prevented from undergoing Malo-lactic fermentation.
Richer than the 05 with fatter weight and heavier cream and slightly tropical fruit – pineapple. All of this perfectly balanced with characteristic citrus acidity. Excellent length again with a citrus spice finish.
Highly recommended.
£26.00
2003 Cullen Chardonnay
My least favourite of the Chardonnays so far. Lemon and grapefruit are the dominant flavours, enriched with vanilla cream but this is slightly less integration than on previous vintages, which may just be a stage in the wine’s development and not a lasting issue.
2002 Cullen Chardonnay
As detailed above, this was a superb white wine vintage at Cullen. 40% of this wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation.
Most elegant, complex nose of the range with slightly floral elements. Perfectly integrated acidity and oak with melon, honey, peach and grapefruit flavours which are persistent right through the mid palate and to the spicy finish. This is superbly balanced, thrilling complex wine and a thing of great beauty.
Highly recommended.
2001 Cullen Chardonnay
Perhaps it was the Viagra ( please see above if you have just joined) and now I wish I had paid more attention to this example as I have just noticed that the Cullen notes for this wine suggest that this has great cellaring potential and is one of their best.
This is not what I found here at all – it was lean, hollow and, in my opinion, past its best. This may very well however have been a case of it having retreated temporarily into its shell although the finish was similarly flat and lifeless which usually suggests that it is not coming back.
Diana Madeline Vertical
The Diana Madeline is considered one of the top 10 wines in Australia for consistency and ability to age and I would certainly concur with that. For my money, is it the absolute pinnacle of red wine making in Australia although the wines do take time to come drink really well. Vanya remarked that there were really no bad vintages of this wine, just those which took longer to come round than others and on the strength of this tasting and the wines tasted later, I would completely agree.
One of the greatest features in these wines is the finesse of the tannins. Vanya attributes this mainly to the Scott Henry Trellis system in the vineyard, a training system which fully exposes the fruit to sunlight from after berry set so there are more phenolics and riper flavours. As soon as the berries get the exposure, the enzyme responsible for phenolic ripening is activated, so that by harvest, the tannins are amazingly ripe, often at much lower alcohol levels – the grower and wine maker not needing to wait for the phenolic ripeness to catch up with the sugar ripeness.
These are also undoubtedly incredibly age worthy - every bit as much as venerable European greats, so an exception to my general rule that most new world examples in this style are best for younger drinking.
2005 Cullen Diana Madeline
75% Cabernet Sauvignon
16% Merlot
5% Malbec
4% Cabernet Franc
1% Petit Verdot
Matured for 19 months in French oak barrels, 70% new.
Closed, inky nose. Good, balanced acidity and structured but very finely grained tannins. Medium body with inky dark fruit, black coffee and later on, more red fruit. Superb development on the palate with delicious dark liquorices and black coffee coming out later on. The finish is extra-ordinary – waves of intense, liquorices, coffee and spicy fruit just keep coming. Still a complete baby but already very lovely.
Highly recommended.
2004 Cullen Diana Madeline
84% Cabernet Sauvignon
13% Merlot
3% Cabernet Franc
Matured for 18 months in French oak, 54% new.
Even more closed on nose than the 05 but the fruit on the palate is much sweeter. Ripe red and black fruits with a slightly floral edge, rich chocolate and liquorice, all perfectly balanced. Despite the sweetness of the fruit, there is nothing even remotely gloopy about it – the edge is absolutely box fresh. Again the length is amazing with a freshly ground expresso finish.
Cullen consider this, along with 95, 99 and 01 vintages, to be among the best of the last 15 years. The main growing season was cool and dry with warmer temperatures at the end ensuring full ripeness.
Highly recommended
2003 Cullen Diana Madeline
72% Cabernet Sauvignon
20% Merlot
4% Malbec
4% Petit Verdot
Some plum and slightly floral character coming through on the nose. Lighter and fresher then 04 without the same amazing intensity but it is actually drinking better now and has a lovely youthful freshness to it with perfectly balanced tannins. The won’t go on for quite as long as some vintages and perhaps lacks the complexity in some ways than most but I would not turn down a glass of this at any time.
Recommended
£35.00
2002 Cullen Diana Madeline
80% Cabernet Sauvignon
12% Merlot
8% Petit Verdot
Matured for 19 months in French oak, 45% new.
Piercing, beautifully elegant red fruit on nose. Superb elegance as well on the palate with balanced acidity and supple, lean, integrated tannins. There is a lovely cigar box edge to the mainly red fruit on the palate with great length and a fresh, elegant fruit finish. This is the most like Claret tasted so far today and is exceptionally lovely.
Highly recommended
2001 Cullen Diana Madeline
75% Cabernet Sauvignon
25% Merlot
Richer, blacker fruit on the nose. Much glossier and more textured on the palate but still fresh, tight and very youthful. (worth noting that this was the first vintage under stelvin). The tannins are structured but, as always, very fine and already completely integrated. The fruit is still amazingly youthful and has not yet blossomed into anything other than rich cherry and cassis flavours with a round, plumy finish, not really showing any spice for a change. This is definitely a keeper and is one for those who really value flesh on the bones of their wines as opposed to lean muscle.
Highly recommended
2000 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
65% Cabernet Sauvignon
21% Merlot
5% Malbec
5% Petit Verdot
4% Cabernet Franc
Matured for 15 months in French oak
This wine has much less fruit and much more earthy spice on the nose than its predecessors in this tasting. (worth noting that this is the first vintage under cork which we are tasting).
Earthy, chocolatey spice with underlying fresh damson flavours. The tannins are ripe and fine and the length is very good with a fresh damson and milk chocolate finish. It may not be one of the show stopping vintages, but this should not be discounted as it is lovely stuff and is ageing beautifully.
Recommended
1999 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
Exact proportions of blend unknown but some Petit Verdot from the Mangan vineyard was included.
Matured for 18 months in French oak, 40% new.
Very closed on the nose. Rich cassis fruit on the palate which is still very locked in, with layers of dark chocolate on top. Tannins are structured but integrated but there is a slight dip in the mid-palate but the length is good and the finish is elegant with plum and chocolate. This is currently amazingly closed but the intact structure and density of the fruit suggest it will continue for a long time yet.
Recommended
£36.00
1998 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/merlot
70% Cabernet Sauvignon
25% Merlot
5% Cabernet Franc
Matured for 22 months in French oak, 20% new.
Cassis and black coffee nose. High but balanced acidity and amazingly fine grained tannins. Relatively closed cassis fruit on the palate. Like the 1999, this is not in a particularly good place at the moment but does not taste at all past it – the length is good and the finish is still fresh. This should cellar very well but would put it away for a few years.
Recommended
1997 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
80% Cabernet Sauvignon
12% Merlot
8% Cabernet Franc
A proportion of this wine was barrel fermented and then matured for 15 months of French oak, 32% new.
Quite structured on the nose with a hint of balsamic vinegar. The acidity is still fresh and the tannins are fine and elegant, enclosing fleshy black fruit with a balsamic edge. This lacks the intensity of other vintages but is drinking well now. I don’t think this has quite the long term potential of some of the others though – the finish is ever so slightly hot and imbalanced.
Recommended
1996 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
75% Cabernet Sauvigon
20% Merlot
5% Cabernet Franc
10% of this wine was barrel fermented with 40% then spending 18 months in new oak.
Plum, ink and cedarwood on the nose which follows through on the palate. Tannins are amazingly fine and deliciously integrated into the rich, ripe fruit, with cigar box, liquorices and cedarwood underlying. Fabulous length and fine, elegantly spicy finish. This is immensely beautiful wine and really shows the fantastic ageing potential of these wines.
Highly recommended
1995 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
70% Cabernet Sauvignon
23% Merlot
7% Cabenet Franc
Matured for 17 months in new French oak, 30% new.
Spice and chocolate on nose which follows through on the palate but the fruit is tasting rather closed on this example. The tannins are exceptionally fine though and the length is very good but the finish is currently relatively reticent. This is not showing at its best today and does not give the impression of being one of the major wines of the past decade – which Cullen believe it to be. The heat and the fact that this is at the end of a gruelling afternoon are both almost certainly factors as well.
Dinner at Di Cullen’s house
Dinner that evening was served at the house that Cullen family had lived in – a sprawling, low bungalow on a small hill, overlooking the winery and some of the vineyards on the other side of the road.
The evening starts with a comparative tasting, very casually done, on the lawn outside, of top Margaret River estates and my notes for this and very higgeldy piggeldy as I was by then plumping whole new depths of exhaustion and standing up, glass in hand, trying to write notes when one is wide awake is enough of a challenge. I went on, later, to fall asleep, sitting up, at the table, directly opposite to Vanya which was embarrassing and I hope in now way taken as a sign of indifference.
We started with some Chardonnays – ’99 and 01 Leeuwin. The 1999 was completely gone – flat and oxidised but the 01 was good – well balanced and technically correct but completely lacking the vitality which the Cullen is so full of.
These were served with small, wonderfully sweet and creamy oysters from Albany – some of the best I have had for years.
01 Piero Chardonnay was better – a leaner, tighter style – but I felt that the acidity was ever so slightly out of sync with the fruit.
Next was a range of Cabernet’s. The 01 Haughton was not bad although it faded rather in the mid palate and towards the back. The initial cassis fruit/cedarwood was pleasing though, just on follow through.
01 Mosswood was full of ripe, glassy cassis fruit with lots of chocolate and vanilla cream with velvet tannins and spicy, earthy notes underneath. I like Mosswood and think that for lovers of the sweet, rich styles, this is a very good example but for me, again, it lacks the vibrancy of the Cullen which makes it much the lesser wine.
95 Vasse Felix was the wine which came closest to incredibly high standard set by Cullen. Warm, baked plum with vanilla spice and liquorices, the acidity was still very fresh and the tannins very fine. Lovely wine that should go even further.
94 Voyager Cabernet/Merlot and the 92 Howard Park were completely fucked – a very technical term which I feel needs no explanation.
Just before or after the main course (I was falling asleep remember – this is not confusion based on too much wine), the 1983 Cullen Cabernet/Merlot was served with the ’83 Cape Mentelle. They were both good on the nose – at least initially – showing cigarbox and pencil lead with baked plum – much more intensely on the Cullen.
On the palate, the Cullen was beautiful – all silk tannins, cigarbox and pencil lead flavours – elegant and amazingly fine – still fresh and still with great length and finish.
The Cape Mentelle on the other hand was not in good shape. Not completely dead, the fruit had however shrunk almost completely from the bones – not a pleasant experience. The nose changed completely about 5 minutes later with most of the character evaporating completely.
Vanya then pulled out a ’79 Cabernet/Merlot which was another wine of beauty. Still sweet fruit with warm spice – cassis and pencil lead with hints of animal. It has great elegance despite the plump nature of the fruit and the finish is still very vibrant with liquorices and spice. This is completely lovely wine showing some of the character of aged claret in the cigar box and pencil lead aromas but also having a generosity and warmth which is fabulous and not at all old world.
I was doubtful about the ’88 Cullen at first- it seemed quite sharp on the nose. The palate was completely fantastic though. Even more elegant than the ’79, it was all about cedarwood aromatics and fine, persistent length with an amazingly focused spice note that goes straight down the middle of the tongue and lingers for ages on the finish.
No wonder I am madly in love with Cullen .
The ’88 Reserve was much tighter than the above and obviously still has ages to go yet. I need to make sure I visit in a few years and will hope I get the opportunity to re-taste then.
We left Albany in the morning and made what felt like an interminable journey (almost 6 hours in a bus) to Margaret River, through absolutely magnificent forests of Blue Gum, Karri, Marri and Jarrah and other eucalypts. Many of these trees shoot straight up, their strong, slender trunks exquisitely pale and smooth, instead of gently spreading branches to the left and right. I have to come back and take time to walk through these instead of just looking at them through the windows of a moving vehicle some time.
Margaret River, when we finally arrived, was nothing like what I imagined. For a start, it is much bigger than I had thought. I have always pictured it as the Australian version of Napa Valley and while I still think that is true in some ways, physically they are completely different. Napa is manicured, slick and almost overly styled at times while Margaret River – although the actual town of that name has elements of all of that – in the main retains a rustic feel. It very much still feels like a farming community and there are great swathes of land in between vineyards so it is not as obviously a wine region.
Margaret River is surrounded by the sea on 3 sides, moderating temperatures (although it certainly did not feel that way yesterday which was oven hot again – 38 degrees celcius and when you are standing in that, it is almost impossible to imagine that fruit can survive with acidity intact) and meaning that the extremes seen further south are not a feature here. The small creeks and valleys and natural vegetation found in the valley create a host of microclimates with supposedly the best reds being produced in Wilyabrup – in the middle – where Cullen are based.
Even if Vanya Cullen made wine which tasted like kangaroo pee, I would probably still want to visit and keep an eye on what they were doing. From the very start of their history in 1966 (Cullen were the founder family of the Margaret River region in this year, planting the first commercial vineyard then), they were completely dedicated to responsible farming, keeping chemical intervention to an absolute minimum and doing everything with maximum respect for the environment.
The first time I met Vanya at a small tasting at The Square in London in about 1999, she spoke with great conviction about organic viticulture. This is not that long ago in some ways but all the way back in the final days of the last century, organic was not that much spoken about – it was bubbling under but whole sections of the trade in all sectors dismissed it out of hand. I remember telling the very eminent Sales Director of a highly respected London Wine Merchants in ’99 that I wanted to do a list with as many organic wines as possible and he looked at me with complete bafflement. I honestly don’t think he knew what on earth I was talking about.
8 years on, the situation, happily, has changed completely and Cullen has moved on even further and is now completely biodynamic, using the various preparations and the water flow contraption (this is not the technical term but I am referring to the serious of different containers in which water is stirred in a specific direction to create a vortex. It then flows down from one container to the next and when the process is finished, the mixture of water and preparation is ‘charged’, so to speak, and ready for spraying), as well as working according to phases of the moon.
We were treated – and that really is the right word, despite what I am about to tell you – to an in-depth explanation of the 500 preparation after dinner. That, for the uninitiated, is the cow manure which is buried in a cow horn for about 6 months and then dug up, diluted (35g to 40 litres of water which is enough for a hectare) and sprayed. Some of the manure post burial was produced and unsavoury as it may sound to pass poo around with the cheese (a novel departure from Port), the hard, brown pellets had a rich, earthy smell which was clean and by no means too farm-yardy. A sprinkling of ground up quartz and silica follows and within a relatively short space of time, rich, varied and vital life returns to vineyards and soils. Earthworms, butterflies and all manner of bugs which feed on each other – which means there is no need for sprays to get rid of anything – flourish, as do the vines.
These vineyards bristle with health – the soil looks moist, brown and alive and this in a region experiencing its worst drought in 130 years this vintage. Apparently biodynamically farmed soils hold 20% moisture than those farmed by other methods (which is why it is particularly appropriate for drought prone regions) and it certainly looks that way. The vines are green and exuberant and the fruit tastes sweet, intense and perfectly balanced. Neighbouring vineyards just across the fence did not have the same energy about them – the soils were greyer and there was a slightly weary air to the hot vines. Vanya spoke about this natural balance which is a feature of biodynamically grown fruit – there is no need to adjust in the winery at all because acids, sugars and tannins are all perfectly pitched at the initial production stage – on the vine.
She always was and remains a very inspiring lady with a complete commitment to helping to sort out the mess we have created on this planet, not just in and through wine making but in all sorts of areas. The winery is now completely carbon neutral through various tree planting programs which they are involved with. She believes – rightly - that we need to all stop thinking only about what we get out of life and start to think about what it is that we can give back. So for all these reasons, I would be in love with Cullen, no matter what the wines tasted like but happily for this particular affair, they are completely spectacular and we were treated to some real gems.
Hot, dusty and profoundly sick of travelling, we were welcomed off the bus with an initial tasting of the current and just released vintages . First though, we visited the winery to have a look at few of the infants. The 07 Chardonnay in barrel – pre malolactic fermentation (where the very sharp malic acid is converted into much softer lactic acid) – was already surprisingly well integrated with the oak and full of vibrant fruit and good texture. This had slightly floral aromas which are apparently a bit of a feature with biodynamically grown fruit.
The 06 Chardonnay from tank was actually slightly more all over the place in a way, still needing time to settle but it showed the same seamless oak integration and great length and texture.
Fresh Semillon juice from grapes harvested that morning was a revelation – the flavours were in vivid technicolour – sugar snap peas and freshly mown grass in the juice from the Cullen vineyard and more melon and lemon with broader exture in that from the Mangan. The 07 Sauvignon on the nose was exactly like very freshly squeezed lemon juice – almost literally bristling with verve.
Then back to the tasting room for the finished wines :-
2006 Mangan Sauvignon/Semillon
60% Sauvignon Blanc – 2.3 tons/acre yield
40% Semillon – 2.7 tons/acre yield
12.7% abv
15% of the Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in French oak
This wine is a new version from the Mangan vineyard (farmed by Vanya’s brother and his wife and in the process of conversion to biodynamics) and the original (from the Cullen vineyard is still made as well). Like all Cullen vines, these are dry-farmed and are in the process of conversion to biodynamic viticulture.
Fresh, grassy nose with underlying single cream. Good, balanced acidity and medium body with cream, lemon and grapefruit and a touch of honeyed spice. Still tasting very young but all the components are in place and the length is delicious and persistent and very fresh, with a slightly spice finish.
Highly recommended
£16.50
2006 Cullen Sauvignon/Semillon
80% Sauvignon Blanc – 2.1 tons/acre yield
20% Semillon – 2.1 tons/acre yield
12% abv
45% matured in new French oak
Rounder, richer nose than the Mangan which follows through on the palate where there is slightly more intense spice towards the back. Also still just a touch too young but very lovely. On balance, I think I prefer the Mangan which is tighter with, at this stage, more minerality. The Cullen is lovely though with great melon ripeness and even hints of smoke.
Highly recommended.
£16.50
2005 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon
80% Sauvignon Blanc – 2.1 tons/acre yield
20% Semillon – 2.1 tons/acre yield
13% abv
27% barrel fermented and then aged in French oak
Grassy, melon nose. Balanced acidity and medium body with tight, crunchy green fruit, underpinned by cream, toast and spice. Great length and mid-palate weight with good butter/spice development. This is considerably more fleshed out that the 2006. Sauvignon was so outstanding this vintage that more than usual was used.
Highly recommended.
£16.00
2004 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon
77% Sauvignon Blanc
23% Semillon
18% barrel fermented in French oak
Richer and much more honeyed on the nose than previous vintages – obvious development. Rich honey and cream on the palate with an appealing grassy edge and fantastically well balanced acidity. Good length and development with rich spice towards the back. Ever so slightly too hot on the finish.
Highly recommended.
2003 Cullen Sauvignon/Semillon
54% Semillon
46% Sauvignon Blanc
75% of the Sauvignon fermented in new French oak
Tropical nose with smoky hints – appealing but a whole other level of richness compared to previous vintages. Richness even more apparent on the palate, enlivened by a fresh, grassy edge – the oak becoming much more of a secondary ingredient and not at all overwhelming. Excellent development with more freshness coming out further back. Great length and finish.
Highly recommended.
2002 Cullen Sauvignon/Semillon
2002 is regarded as one of the best ever vintages for whites at Cullen, particularly for the Sauvignon and Semillon. The yields were even lower than usual that year and the growing season was long and cool.
More Sauvignon character than any of the others on the nose – nettle and asparagus. Beautifully balanced on palate, the oak has melted completely into the fruit with hints of asparagus and flint. Excellent buttered honey development with acidity still fresh as a daisy. This wine is still very much alive and kicking and while showing development seems to have years yet to go. Very, very beautiful wine.
Highly recommended.
The tasting does get slightly hazy at this point, so I apologise for the notes that follow. It was an amazingly hot day. I had not slept for more than 4 hours a night since arriving and I was reaching what my grandmother used to call my overwrought stage. This is not particularly alarming, it just means I fall about laughing helpless when I really should be serious. To compound this, I had fallen in with a bad crowd in the group – Francois and Jon – who are dangerous to be around in this state. The table with Vanya Cullen on it were engaged in an earnest discussion about wine. We were all involved in an overwrought discussion about Viagra.
2005 Cullen Margaret River Chardonnay
As with all the wines, this has naturally lower alcohols and higher acidity (so they no longer have to add any) since converting to Biodynamics. Incredibly low yields in 2005 and the wine was 100% barrel fermented in new French oak.
Slightly closed on nose but hints of lemon peel and ripe peach. Excellent balancing acidity, medium to full body with lemon cream and leesy undertones. Richer butterscotch towards the back and the finish is clean and lemon fresh. Truly wonderful wine and an example to all new world Chardonnay producers of what this variety can do, oaked, in a hot climate.
This was absolutely fabulous later at dinner, served with scallops with sesame and soy and prawns with coriander and paw-paw.
Highly recommended.
2004 Cullen Margaret River Chardonnay
30% of this wine was prevented from undergoing Malo-lactic fermentation.
Richer than the 05 with fatter weight and heavier cream and slightly tropical fruit – pineapple. All of this perfectly balanced with characteristic citrus acidity. Excellent length again with a citrus spice finish.
Highly recommended.
£26.00
2003 Cullen Chardonnay
My least favourite of the Chardonnays so far. Lemon and grapefruit are the dominant flavours, enriched with vanilla cream but this is slightly less integration than on previous vintages, which may just be a stage in the wine’s development and not a lasting issue.
2002 Cullen Chardonnay
As detailed above, this was a superb white wine vintage at Cullen. 40% of this wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation.
Most elegant, complex nose of the range with slightly floral elements. Perfectly integrated acidity and oak with melon, honey, peach and grapefruit flavours which are persistent right through the mid palate and to the spicy finish. This is superbly balanced, thrilling complex wine and a thing of great beauty.
Highly recommended.
2001 Cullen Chardonnay
Perhaps it was the Viagra ( please see above if you have just joined) and now I wish I had paid more attention to this example as I have just noticed that the Cullen notes for this wine suggest that this has great cellaring potential and is one of their best.
This is not what I found here at all – it was lean, hollow and, in my opinion, past its best. This may very well however have been a case of it having retreated temporarily into its shell although the finish was similarly flat and lifeless which usually suggests that it is not coming back.
Diana Madeline Vertical
The Diana Madeline is considered one of the top 10 wines in Australia for consistency and ability to age and I would certainly concur with that. For my money, is it the absolute pinnacle of red wine making in Australia although the wines do take time to come drink really well. Vanya remarked that there were really no bad vintages of this wine, just those which took longer to come round than others and on the strength of this tasting and the wines tasted later, I would completely agree.
One of the greatest features in these wines is the finesse of the tannins. Vanya attributes this mainly to the Scott Henry Trellis system in the vineyard, a training system which fully exposes the fruit to sunlight from after berry set so there are more phenolics and riper flavours. As soon as the berries get the exposure, the enzyme responsible for phenolic ripening is activated, so that by harvest, the tannins are amazingly ripe, often at much lower alcohol levels – the grower and wine maker not needing to wait for the phenolic ripeness to catch up with the sugar ripeness.
These are also undoubtedly incredibly age worthy - every bit as much as venerable European greats, so an exception to my general rule that most new world examples in this style are best for younger drinking.
2005 Cullen Diana Madeline
75% Cabernet Sauvignon
16% Merlot
5% Malbec
4% Cabernet Franc
1% Petit Verdot
Matured for 19 months in French oak barrels, 70% new.
Closed, inky nose. Good, balanced acidity and structured but very finely grained tannins. Medium body with inky dark fruit, black coffee and later on, more red fruit. Superb development on the palate with delicious dark liquorices and black coffee coming out later on. The finish is extra-ordinary – waves of intense, liquorices, coffee and spicy fruit just keep coming. Still a complete baby but already very lovely.
Highly recommended.
2004 Cullen Diana Madeline
84% Cabernet Sauvignon
13% Merlot
3% Cabernet Franc
Matured for 18 months in French oak, 54% new.
Even more closed on nose than the 05 but the fruit on the palate is much sweeter. Ripe red and black fruits with a slightly floral edge, rich chocolate and liquorice, all perfectly balanced. Despite the sweetness of the fruit, there is nothing even remotely gloopy about it – the edge is absolutely box fresh. Again the length is amazing with a freshly ground expresso finish.
Cullen consider this, along with 95, 99 and 01 vintages, to be among the best of the last 15 years. The main growing season was cool and dry with warmer temperatures at the end ensuring full ripeness.
Highly recommended
2003 Cullen Diana Madeline
72% Cabernet Sauvignon
20% Merlot
4% Malbec
4% Petit Verdot
Some plum and slightly floral character coming through on the nose. Lighter and fresher then 04 without the same amazing intensity but it is actually drinking better now and has a lovely youthful freshness to it with perfectly balanced tannins. The won’t go on for quite as long as some vintages and perhaps lacks the complexity in some ways than most but I would not turn down a glass of this at any time.
Recommended
£35.00
2002 Cullen Diana Madeline
80% Cabernet Sauvignon
12% Merlot
8% Petit Verdot
Matured for 19 months in French oak, 45% new.
Piercing, beautifully elegant red fruit on nose. Superb elegance as well on the palate with balanced acidity and supple, lean, integrated tannins. There is a lovely cigar box edge to the mainly red fruit on the palate with great length and a fresh, elegant fruit finish. This is the most like Claret tasted so far today and is exceptionally lovely.
Highly recommended
2001 Cullen Diana Madeline
75% Cabernet Sauvignon
25% Merlot
Richer, blacker fruit on the nose. Much glossier and more textured on the palate but still fresh, tight and very youthful. (worth noting that this was the first vintage under stelvin). The tannins are structured but, as always, very fine and already completely integrated. The fruit is still amazingly youthful and has not yet blossomed into anything other than rich cherry and cassis flavours with a round, plumy finish, not really showing any spice for a change. This is definitely a keeper and is one for those who really value flesh on the bones of their wines as opposed to lean muscle.
Highly recommended
2000 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
65% Cabernet Sauvignon
21% Merlot
5% Malbec
5% Petit Verdot
4% Cabernet Franc
Matured for 15 months in French oak
This wine has much less fruit and much more earthy spice on the nose than its predecessors in this tasting. (worth noting that this is the first vintage under cork which we are tasting).
Earthy, chocolatey spice with underlying fresh damson flavours. The tannins are ripe and fine and the length is very good with a fresh damson and milk chocolate finish. It may not be one of the show stopping vintages, but this should not be discounted as it is lovely stuff and is ageing beautifully.
Recommended
1999 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
Exact proportions of blend unknown but some Petit Verdot from the Mangan vineyard was included.
Matured for 18 months in French oak, 40% new.
Very closed on the nose. Rich cassis fruit on the palate which is still very locked in, with layers of dark chocolate on top. Tannins are structured but integrated but there is a slight dip in the mid-palate but the length is good and the finish is elegant with plum and chocolate. This is currently amazingly closed but the intact structure and density of the fruit suggest it will continue for a long time yet.
Recommended
£36.00
1998 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/merlot
70% Cabernet Sauvignon
25% Merlot
5% Cabernet Franc
Matured for 22 months in French oak, 20% new.
Cassis and black coffee nose. High but balanced acidity and amazingly fine grained tannins. Relatively closed cassis fruit on the palate. Like the 1999, this is not in a particularly good place at the moment but does not taste at all past it – the length is good and the finish is still fresh. This should cellar very well but would put it away for a few years.
Recommended
1997 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
80% Cabernet Sauvignon
12% Merlot
8% Cabernet Franc
A proportion of this wine was barrel fermented and then matured for 15 months of French oak, 32% new.
Quite structured on the nose with a hint of balsamic vinegar. The acidity is still fresh and the tannins are fine and elegant, enclosing fleshy black fruit with a balsamic edge. This lacks the intensity of other vintages but is drinking well now. I don’t think this has quite the long term potential of some of the others though – the finish is ever so slightly hot and imbalanced.
Recommended
1996 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
75% Cabernet Sauvigon
20% Merlot
5% Cabernet Franc
10% of this wine was barrel fermented with 40% then spending 18 months in new oak.
Plum, ink and cedarwood on the nose which follows through on the palate. Tannins are amazingly fine and deliciously integrated into the rich, ripe fruit, with cigar box, liquorices and cedarwood underlying. Fabulous length and fine, elegantly spicy finish. This is immensely beautiful wine and really shows the fantastic ageing potential of these wines.
Highly recommended
1995 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
70% Cabernet Sauvignon
23% Merlot
7% Cabenet Franc
Matured for 17 months in new French oak, 30% new.
Spice and chocolate on nose which follows through on the palate but the fruit is tasting rather closed on this example. The tannins are exceptionally fine though and the length is very good but the finish is currently relatively reticent. This is not showing at its best today and does not give the impression of being one of the major wines of the past decade – which Cullen believe it to be. The heat and the fact that this is at the end of a gruelling afternoon are both almost certainly factors as well.
Dinner at Di Cullen’s house
Dinner that evening was served at the house that Cullen family had lived in – a sprawling, low bungalow on a small hill, overlooking the winery and some of the vineyards on the other side of the road.
The evening starts with a comparative tasting, very casually done, on the lawn outside, of top Margaret River estates and my notes for this and very higgeldy piggeldy as I was by then plumping whole new depths of exhaustion and standing up, glass in hand, trying to write notes when one is wide awake is enough of a challenge. I went on, later, to fall asleep, sitting up, at the table, directly opposite to Vanya which was embarrassing and I hope in now way taken as a sign of indifference.
We started with some Chardonnays – ’99 and 01 Leeuwin. The 1999 was completely gone – flat and oxidised but the 01 was good – well balanced and technically correct but completely lacking the vitality which the Cullen is so full of.
These were served with small, wonderfully sweet and creamy oysters from Albany – some of the best I have had for years.
01 Piero Chardonnay was better – a leaner, tighter style – but I felt that the acidity was ever so slightly out of sync with the fruit.
Next was a range of Cabernet’s. The 01 Haughton was not bad although it faded rather in the mid palate and towards the back. The initial cassis fruit/cedarwood was pleasing though, just on follow through.
01 Mosswood was full of ripe, glassy cassis fruit with lots of chocolate and vanilla cream with velvet tannins and spicy, earthy notes underneath. I like Mosswood and think that for lovers of the sweet, rich styles, this is a very good example but for me, again, it lacks the vibrancy of the Cullen which makes it much the lesser wine.
95 Vasse Felix was the wine which came closest to incredibly high standard set by Cullen. Warm, baked plum with vanilla spice and liquorices, the acidity was still very fresh and the tannins very fine. Lovely wine that should go even further.
94 Voyager Cabernet/Merlot and the 92 Howard Park were completely fucked – a very technical term which I feel needs no explanation.
Just before or after the main course (I was falling asleep remember – this is not confusion based on too much wine), the 1983 Cullen Cabernet/Merlot was served with the ’83 Cape Mentelle. They were both good on the nose – at least initially – showing cigarbox and pencil lead with baked plum – much more intensely on the Cullen.
On the palate, the Cullen was beautiful – all silk tannins, cigarbox and pencil lead flavours – elegant and amazingly fine – still fresh and still with great length and finish.
The Cape Mentelle on the other hand was not in good shape. Not completely dead, the fruit had however shrunk almost completely from the bones – not a pleasant experience. The nose changed completely about 5 minutes later with most of the character evaporating completely.
Vanya then pulled out a ’79 Cabernet/Merlot which was another wine of beauty. Still sweet fruit with warm spice – cassis and pencil lead with hints of animal. It has great elegance despite the plump nature of the fruit and the finish is still very vibrant with liquorices and spice. This is completely lovely wine showing some of the character of aged claret in the cigar box and pencil lead aromas but also having a generosity and warmth which is fabulous and not at all old world.
I was doubtful about the ’88 Cullen at first- it seemed quite sharp on the nose. The palate was completely fantastic though. Even more elegant than the ’79, it was all about cedarwood aromatics and fine, persistent length with an amazingly focused spice note that goes straight down the middle of the tongue and lingers for ages on the finish.
No wonder I am madly in love with Cullen .
The ’88 Reserve was much tighter than the above and obviously still has ages to go yet. I need to make sure I visit in a few years and will hope I get the opportunity to re-taste then.
