Cats & Dogs at Vie di Romans
Second day in Friuli and we start with a visit to Vie di Romans. By Kate
Vie di Romans have 40 hectares in the Isonzo region of Fruili, where three generations of the Gallo family have now made wine. This is an unfortunate surname for a family so dedicated to quality but no matter. They have risen above it.
We start with a very quick vineyard tour in the company of Gianfranco Gallo who has been in charge since 1978. The sky is cloudless and the sun, even at 9.30am, is merciless. A fat, very friendly cat ambles alongside us and threads its way through our legs when we stop.
Gianfranco gives us a concise summary of the terroir of Friuli in general and Isonzo in particular, which is very helpful. This is a region where two climates – Mediteranean and Continental – meet; the only place in Italy
They are mainly white wines. Cold winds from the East, especially prevalent in the Isonzo region, mean that it is often far too cool to properly ripen red varieties. Merlot is one of the few that consistently copes with whatever a vintage throws at it. The soils in Friuli are full of Alpine deposits, left over from glaciers that migrated majestically down here for thousands of years and then, exhausted by their efforts and no doubt feeling the Mediterranean warmth , melted, leaving a valley full of stones. Now soils are a hugely complex mix of stones and soils which are a degradation of those stones.
A terribly enthusiastic small dog comes racing down from the direction of the winery, tumbling into the long grass and pouncing on the cat lying contentedly on its back, staring up at the cerulean sky. The two begin a vineyard tussle, tearing through the vines until, in disgust, the cat flounces back up the road.
The dog, triumphant though wearied by the exertion and the heat, slumps to the ground and chews reflectively on a blade of grass. He is a very funny, lovely little thing. But then, so was the beleaguered cat.
Gianfranco talks about the fact that his vineyard is ‘sustainable’ but not organic or biodynamic. He uses an argument which is, in my opinion, not entirely broad enough. The use of copper in organic and biodynamic viticulture is the weapon of choice in the hands of those who do not farm this way and this is the one he chooses to employ.
Copper is a heavy metal and ultimately not good for soils at high concentrations (not great at even low concentrations) but any genuinely good producers following organic principles (as opposed to those doing it merely for marketing blurb on the bottle ) are every bit as aware and careful of their levels of use as a responsible producer using manufactured chemicals.
Systemic fungicides are incredibly poisonous and dangerous, so I find it a bit disingenuous to point an accusatory finger at copper only without any mention of the evils inherent in the alternatives. The point should also be made that with the best ‘natural’ producers, the whole ethos is centered around encouraging maximum health in the vines and the soils, so that the plants are better equipped to deal with all manner of threats, without the need for any kind of intervention or, in the worst case scenario, only very low levels of intervention.
This does not work all the time but it works often and effectively enough to make it viable in the hands of hard working and talented producers. Having said all of that, they are clearly very responsible at Vie di Romans and are not liberally flinging poison around. Indeed, analysis of their soils recently revealed almost as much microbiological life as that found in a nearby field which had lain fallow for years, which is a good sign.
Then again, there was no discussion of how levels would have been higher in soils farmed bio-dynamically, as opposed to those exposed to even very low levels of chemicals or not tended at all.
We have a quick look at the immaculate winery and impressive barrel cellar and then repair to the tasting room, starting with a vertical of their Piere Sauvignon Blanc.
Gainfranco tells us that Chardonnay and Sauvignon were actually introduced in the region before Fruilano and Malvasia because the area was actually part of Austria
2008 Piere Sauvignon
Good, although I don’t honestly know how much I could drink. It is big.
1997 Piere Sauvignon
This was apparently the warmest vintage of all those we are tasting.
1996 Piere Sauvignon
This shows on the nose which is much more fragrant than above with hints of grapefruit. Noticably fresher on the palate and all the better for it. The characteristic smoked honey is there but very well balanced by grapefruit spice. Excellent length and rich finish.
1993 Piere Sauvignon
Faintly scented honey on the nose. The flesh has started to recede on the palate and it is showing hints of oxidation. The bones, which are showing, are attractive though – lean spice and a milky coffee mid palate and finish.
This wine is, I think, a very good argument against the ageing of Sauvignon. Yes, it does age in that this is not nearly completely dead - they all, to a greater or lesser extent, have life in them. However, whether or not they are intrinsically better is a different matter altogether and I am not convinced on that score.
Now two very historic Friulian grape varieties:
2008 Fruilano Dolee
This is barrel fermented but not in new barrels. Production is very limited as they concentrate on Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.
2008 Malvasia Istriana
Malvasia from other regions tends to be completely different as the name ‘Malvasia’ is used with liberal abandon. Some are particularly aromatic and some, much less so. Malvasia Istriana is much more about spice and just very subtle floral hints.
I like this a lot less than the above – fatter and coarser with a shorter length.
2008 Flor di Uis
I usually like this wine but it tastes a bit all over the place today – think it is still a bit cold, so will return to it. When I do, lychee, fresh mint and ripe peach burst forth from the glass but after the cool elegance of the Fruilano, it is a bit much.
This is actually quite lovely wine for people in the mood for a mouthful but I don’t think I am today. It is well made though and wears its weight and exuberance well.
2008 Vieris Sauvignon
A lot more honeyed than the Piere with the green pea shoot and nettle flavours only just apparent under a layer of sweet spice. Richer finish too. Don’t find this as complex or elegant as the Piere – is it the oak? Or the clones?
‘Piere’ means stone in the local dialect and the vineyard gives bigger wines. Thie Vieris vineyard has much more clay. Piere uses Italian clones of SB but Vieris is all French, while the Piere is vinified in stainless steel and the Vieris in oak.
2008 Vie di Romans Chardonnay
Chardonnay is becoming a globalised variety says Gianfranco, with a globalised taste. This has led to quite a backlash against the variety. It is actually a grape too easy to grow but it does not mean that the grape itself does not posses a value. In some terroirs, it might come up with a very banal result but in others it can reach top potential.
Good chardonnay is an expression of terroir while Sauvignon Blanc is much more an expression of technique, he says, and broadly speaking, I would agree with him.
This is certainly very well balanced chardonnay with fresh chunks of all manner of citrus fruit emerging, eventually triumphant, from behind the smoky oak. This still tastes a touch too young without full integration of oak and fruit yet but it shows great promise and has great length and a deliciously spiced grapefruit finish. A really well made wine.
2008 Dessimus Pinot Grigio
This is a romate style, being that gorgeous pinky-gold colour which speaks of time left on the grey skins.
Very fresh spice nose. This is very fine PG although the oak is a touch too strong on the finish for my liking. It is a shame as the delicate spice of the fruit at the start is very promising but it somehow doesn’t follow through. Perhaps it needs a bit more time for the oak to soften.
Gianfranco says that Pinot Grigio is at the moment a very trendy wine which is a problem. The Vie di Romans interpretation goes back to the roots of the variety, namely a clone originally derived from Pinot Noir, so they look for the same aromatic finesse and are not afraid of some delicate tannin.
The fresh, easy commercial examples never show this, being basically products of fermentation more than terroir. He feels that theirs is a very ‘natural’ interpretation of PG showing characteristic pear skin, dried fruits, pastry and spice aroma.
We finish with a Merlot rose which is a bit of jarring note in an impressive tasting. Although I didn’t necessarily like all of the wines, I could admire even those that weren’t to my taste for the evidently good fruit and skilful wine making, but the rose shows neither, being rather coarse and clumsy.
And then back out into the bright light and off to legendary producer, Livio Felluga.
Then again, there was no discussion of how levels would have been higher in soils farmed bio-dynamically, as opposed to those exposed to even very low levels of chemicals or not tended at all.
Good, although I don’t honestly know how much I could drink. It is big.
This shows on the nose which is much more fragrant than above with hints of grapefruit. Noticably fresher on the palate and all the better for it. The characteristic smoked honey is there but very well balanced by grapefruit spice. Excellent length and rich finish.
Good chardonnay is an expression of terroir while Sauvignon Blanc is much more an expression of technique, he says, and broadly speaking, I would agree with him.
