A dinner with Italians
Wines that is, not people. I was actually eating with Jude who is of course Cumbrian. By Kate
So far, I am sticking to my new resolution of a posting a week. A quite possibly hopelessly over optimistic and premature statement given that this is only week two but I do live in hope.
Having said that, I fear that this entry may be just a little incoherent and possibly barely worthy of taking up any room in cyber space. I realise that not being worthy of posting does not stop the majority of users of this seemingly endless expanse but still. I like to think that Green & Blue upholds standards.
I am hopelessly addled after two days of many hours spent staring at a screen. Today, more or less without any interruption except to eat some strawberries and muesli and then, in a fit of frustration, almost an entire packet of oat cakes with honey. I now feel slightly ill.
Yesterday, I was attempting to translate the writings of Alain Castex, one of our favourite French wine makers and a guru of the Natural wine movement. I shall leave further comment on that for now as I hope to post my efforts relatively soon but I will say that, not being fluent in French at all, the experience drove me to drink.
Today, I have been working on the notes for South and South Western France for our Secondary School of Wine
It was quite a tough week, even for me – veteran of doing double the hours that most think of as relatively arduous. Somewhere in the mix were two nights of wine dinners in a row up at The Grove but happily, the wines and the pairings were exceptionally good, so it wasn’t all hard work.
The theme was Italian whites and we seemed to be moored mainly in Piedmont with a fantastic Arneis from Deltetto which was paired with a Tomato Consummé with Cucumber sorbet, Basil and smoked Mozzarella Ravioli starting the evening.
It must be noted here that I am generally not a fan of any dish that takes a full line of copy to describe and the region of Poncy is one that does not interest me in the slightest. Give me rusticity over fuss every time. However, Russell Batemen who is the still relatively new, young Chef at Colettes is really exceptionally good and I have absolutely no problem with eating everything he makes. I don’t know if he has a wife or girlfriend but fear she may be the size of a small house if he does. I certainly would be.
The above dish was completely delicious. Real depth of flavour in the Consummé with the flavours being clean and crisp. It worked a treat with the wine which had a similarly pristine freshness about it.
Next up was Cornish John Dory with Brixham Crab, Fennel and Bacon. The bacon in the dish seemed to be more essence of than any actual physical chunks, two very small but very intense, smoky and sweet cubes of jelly supplying this flavour which brilliant picked up the very smoky edge to the wine – Guido Marsella’s Fiano di Avellino from Campania
The main course was lovely but my least favourite of the menu – Poulet Anglaise with Langoustines and Truffle Gnocchi, served with 2001 La Giustiniana’s ‘Just’, an extra special Cortese which is harvested slightly late and then barrel fermented. The eight years in bottle have given distinct truffle flavours which were beautifully picked up by the Gnocchi and it had more than enough weight to cope with the chicken. I am just not such a fan of breast and can’t see why anyone would chose this meat over a succulent chunk of thigh or a drumstick. Yet, for breast, this was beautifully moist. Jude benefited from my disinterest though, happily finishing what I had left on my plate.
Dessert was a complete triumph – and this from someone who really doesn’t usually eat such things. Raspberry Parfait with White Chocolate Mousse and Mint Syrup brilliantly matched with Vitorrio Bera Moscato D’Asti, also from Piedmont . I remember that during the wine tasting months ago, we had discussed how white chocolate and Moscato are a famously good pairing and Russell had said that he had thought raspberries would work too. I was dubious but he was spot on. The flavours of the berries and the wine were sublime together. I finished the entire dessert – something that has not happened for years. I felt completely ill for hours afterwards mind but that has everything to do with me being un-used to such a sugar onslaught and nothing to do with the quality of the food. It was worth it though. Completely.
A final and completely unrelated note – a million thanks to the very kind anonymous blog reader who emailed me with a suggestion for helping with the visa for our next Scholarship winner. I have followed this up and it is looking hopeful. I will keep you posted.
